Malacca - Don't mess with her? - Part 1

3 - 6 June 2015, Malacca

I know it has been some time since I last visited Malacca, may be 10 years ago, but what greeted me on this visit to Malacca was shocking, to say the least.  I am talking about the signage or the slogan that is placed at just about everywhere in Malacca. It reads “Don’t Mess with Melaka.” 

the offensive signage

Hello?  Which genius came up with this sign-lah?  For a moment, as I glared at the signage, I thought it was a tourist promotional thingy. Then I thought it could be Malacca’s idea of welcoming visitors. Only to realise much later that it means, don’t litter! Who would have guessed?

the welcome signboard - also carries the slogan

Seriously, I think Malacca state government should just remove that offensive signage. It is like being greeted by thugs which is not the image that outsiders have of Malaysians.  It is not polite to greet people this way and the message that it is supposed to carry - do not litter - does not really come across.  Why can't the state keep it simple like "Keep Malacca Clean and Green." That awful slogan is totally out of place.

Anyway, back to Malacca trip. Many many disappointments. Let me list them so that I can get to the point straight on.

One - Malacca is supposed to be a historical city but history is being kind of re-written here. There is heavy UMNO-presence everywhere as though the state government wants to make a statement here that Malacca belongs to UMNO and the Malays.  (Note: UMNO is the dominant party that rules the Barisan Nasional , the party that rules Malaysia currently).

b  

the Malacca River/Canal - nightview

      Two - The lifeline of Malacca in its early years was the Malacca River but the Malacca River is no longer a river but a canal.  The river that was the centre of activity throughout its long history now functions as a tourist attraction spot.  The main activity is the river cruise.  Although the state has done a massive job of cleaning up the dirty and polluted waters of the river which is good, I cannot help feeling that a piece of history has been lost here.

the Dutch remnants - graveyard

    Three - The Portuguese settlement of Sg Ujong has been neglected badly. The fishing activity that was traditionally carried out has been hampered by waterfront development projects. I don't think anyone can fish in this coastal area anymore.  What still remains is a small group of terrace houses called the Portuguese village. The occupants are mainly elderly retired people.

newly set up hotels - on reclamation land

      Four - The Indian Peranakan people of Malacca known as the Chitti community has also been neglected.  Their settlement is a small village that is surrounded by development at all corners.  I am not sure how long the community can survive this way.  Many youngsters have moved away to other cities once again leaving the old folks at home.  The Chitti temple still stands and there is a small museum at the entrance of the village which by the way was closed when we were there. That is the Chitti settlement for you.

land reclamation work 

e   Five - The continuous land reclamation work along Malacca's coastline.  The coastal town of Malacca is no longer coastal due to this massive reclamation that is going on in order to build new townships. The scenic coastal driveway from Jalan Tengkera to Tanjung Bidara beach which was lined with pre-war mansions and bungalows is now obstructed by land reclamation project.

view from our hotel - new island created thru land reclamation

      Six - There are more budget hotels than visitors in Malacca town! Seriously! We went during the school break and this is what I saw.  Perhaps the development came about the time Malacca city was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site back in 2008.  But what has happened is that there are way too many hotels than tourists and visitors!

   Seven - I also noticed too many supermarkets and hypermarkets in Malacca town.  Tesco, Giant, Jaya Jusco, Parkson, Bintang, The Store, etc. One mall that we entered was so huge with only a handful of people inside.  Who are they catering to?  The food court that we visited in the mall did not represent all segments of the population of Malacca. 

     Eight - The famous Jonker Street at the heart of Malacca's Baba Nyonya heritage site has turned into a regular pasar malam.  You can still find Baba Nyonya delicacies and eateries here but the numbers are few.  They are far outnumbered by other traders and  immigrant owned/manned stalls.

     Nine - If you drive around Malacca city, you will not get the feeling of being in an ancient colonial and historical city that was once the centre of attraction for Chinese, Indian, Portuguese, Dutch, Arab and other foreign traders.  Many old shop houses have been demolished for new housing projects thus changing the entire landscape of the city.

     Ten - The other thing I noticed is that the Baba Nyonya shops are kind of dead and abandoned. They seem to exist as showpiece only.  Herreen Street, where most antique shops, galleries and residential properties are located, exist but minus the thriving activities.  

malay warriors

i     Eleven - The town does not feel cosmo anymore. For a city that thrived on its multi-racial traders, what you get now is the dominance of one race.  There is a building dedicated to the history of UMNO right in the middle of the Dutch Square.  I mean where is the relevance of UMNO history in Malacca's ancient and colonial past. There was also an exhibition on the Islamic history right smack in the middle of Red Square.  Again, I really did not see the relevance of that exhibition displayed at the Red Square.  The state government is obviously attempting to drive home the point that the Malay race and the Islamic faith are the two most dominant themes of Malacca history.

      

hang tuah

    Twelve - The other funny thing I noticed was the fascination the locals had with the word 'Hang'. The local Malays take pride in the legendary 'Hang Tuah' blood lineage, I think, and they are very proud of this Hang Tuah heritage of their state.   The word ‘Hang’ is used everywhere, shops, people, buildings, road names and even food items!

k   Thirteen - In the Malacca Sultanate palace (the replica), there is a section that depicts the arrival of traders from many foreign lands.  Surprisingly, there was not one that depicted the arrival of Indian traders.  Instead, they had a section that portrayed the arrival of Gujerati traders.  History, if studied will tell you that Indian traders were a major force in the Malacca maritime trade of those days.  Most of Parameswara's right hand men were Indians.  But somehow this part has been omitted.  

      Fourteen - Bukit China, the burial site of the so-called Princess Hang Li Po and her followers, is a forgotten site.  The hill has shrunk a little due to development all around it.  It is surrounded by busy roads and strangely right across the road, there is now a Malay burial site.  The only visitors to the hill are those from China as I saw the arrival of tourists buses bringing in Chinese tourists.

bukit china

      So there you have it.  Malacca has lost its soul.  Development in historical cities should be checked.
    Having said this, I do have a wishlist for Malacca. Would it not be great if some semblance of Malacca's history is brought alive, based on factual records available?  Here is my wishlist:

     

     - A replica of 14^th century Malacca fishing village

     - A replica of Malacca port – where merchants waited out monsoon

     - The story of Sultan of Malacca having to abandon his palace      

     - Remnants of Portuguese rule in Malacca     

     - Remnants of Dutch rule in Malacca     

     - Remnants of British rule in Malacca         

    -  A thriving presence of the Baba-Nyonya community that existed for over 500 years in Malacca

    -  A thriving presence of the Chitti community that existed for over 500 years in Malacca

      -   A thriving presence of the Portuguese community that existed for over 500 years in Malacca

     By the way, where is Parameswara’s life story, the founder of Malacca in the 14th century?  And his burial site (does anyone know)?  The only mention of Parameswara outside the museum is one road name, and that was it.