Where the Sun Meets the Sea - Mabul Island

Day 3 and 4 – 6 and 7 August 2011 / 1 Night

Mabul Island is a small oval shaped island ringed with sandy beaches (see map below). It is actually a fishing vilage since two decades ago and it became popular to divers in the 1990s as it is about 15km from Sipadan Island. Those going to Sipadan use this island as a jump-off point; one cannot stay in Sipadan but in Mabul Island, one can find lodging – budget or luxury.

  



Map showing location of Semporna and Pulau Mabul (Mabul Island)

After an early breakfast at the floating chalet restaurant, we gathered in front of the Dive Operator’s office for our 7.30am departure by speedboat.  

Breakfast at Floating Chalet Restautant

The boys all ready to board the boat

The boat was docked at the chalet so we got in easily. About 16 of us were in the boat with a crew of 3. None of us were reminded to wear the life jackets for safety. In fact the crew spreaded some life jackets onto the seats for people to sit on as the seats were wet from previous nights’ rain.

As we took off....

Looking so fresh before the boat took off....after the ride was a different story

Wah, so happy and cheerful before the ride....

The boys took a spot near the engine for a better feel of the wind and water. Me and N sat on a plastic chair (?) opposite them. The type of plastic chairs you find in coffee shops, the one that can be moved around easily.

The boat left Semporna at 8am for the 1 hour ride to Mabul Island. What a ride it was! Halfway through the journey, it started to rain. The waves were strong and we were jolted up, down, sideways, many many times. Several times, my heart skipped a beat and I thought this is it, we were doomed. So much for my escape plan to a remote island for my birthday the next day! I think I lost count of the number of times I screamed.

The boat ride..before the rain started

Rishi was soaked to his skin and moved closer to N and laid his head on N’s lap till we reached land. I held Harish tightly with one hand and N’s T-shirt with the other. We were all soaked and I could see and feel Harish shivering, teeth chattering. On top of it all, the bloody plastic chair that I sat on kept jolting with the boat. I had to drag it back in place for stability. Everyone else seemed so cool, maybe this was all normal to them.

Divers and snorkellers getting ready for the morning ride..

Finally, we reached the lodge. It was a floating chalet, standing on stilts and arranged prettily on the water.

The chalets provided by the operator..these are the more expensive ones than the one we stayed..

The crew helped with our bags. While waiting for our room to be ready, I quickly changed the boys’ clothes, and we sat down for our breakfast – hot tea, coffee, bread, butter, jam and fried rice. Almost 80% of the guests were Mat Sallehs (Caucasians), 15% Chinese, 4% Sabahans and 1% Indians (us). Yup! We were the only ethnic Malaysian Indians there and we naturally stood out.

Common gathering area that served as a restaurant..

While eating, we saw people getting ready for their dive, each donning their gears. So many gadgets – dive suits, snorkel, mask, fins, underwater camera, oxygen tank, all available for rent. This is definitely a niche sport.

A team of freshies learning the basics of diving

When we finally got our room, we were disappointed. The worst room (or dorm) of our trip. There were 4 single beds, one table without mirror, attached bathroom with a small mirror, toilet but without shower. There was a pail and dipper for bathing, the traditional ‘mandi’ with cold water. The bedsheets lokked worn out, do did the pillowcase. Electricity is only available in the island from 5pm till 8am in the morning, luckily our room had A/C so at least we could sleep well at night. I just think the money we paid for that room was not worth it.

Harish in the room

The village behind our lodge, some villagers had their own boats

None of us bathed for the two days we were there because the water was cold – it rained the first day and the second day although the sun was out, the water was too cold. And when you rinsed your mouth, the water had some chemical taste to it. What was that?

The scene at the village when we took our first beach stroll

In the late morning, the boys were restless, and we realised that the rain wasn’t going to stop. For non-divers like us, the beach hang-out is the next best thing to do.

An oil rig converted into a lodge in the middle of the sea

So we packed one bag with some tidbits and went for a walk-around-the-island in the drizzle. It seems it only takes 20-mins to complete one walk-around of the island. But it took us longer! You know why? There was hardly any beach left!!

Houses along the beach

1. There were so many stilt village houses built on the beaches that we had to walk underneath the houses to pass through. There is whole settlements of immigrants from Philippines who have made the island their home. These villagers (Bajau Laut /sea gypsies) are fond of the sea and so build homes on the beaches.

Typical stilt house, and we saw more of this being built

2. Some parts of the beach are not accessible as private resorts/dive operators have declared them as private property! We had walk through private luxury chalets to do that one island round. I am sure if we lingered long enough, the guard will remind us we were trespassing.

Corals and shells for sale in the village

We had to walk on wooden bridges put together with long pieces of planks around the stilt village houses to get to the beach. Some villagers have set up small shops to cater to the tourists. We saw quite a few of these, you can get items like soap, detergent, tidbits, drinks etc here. We passed barefoot children playing self-created games, a surau, a school, a kindergarten etc etc.

Rishi and Harish spotted an empty stretch of beach and were eager to play but we were warned to be careful as there were shrapnels of glasses lying on the beach and in water. The beach was strewn with rubbish and women were scavenging for re-usable items.

At one time, we passed a private resort with beautiful chalets and landscaped gardens, and had to jump fallen trees and squeeze past fences just to do the island round. Definitely more than 20mins!

When we finished the round and ended up back in the village, we couldn’t find the connecting plank/bridge to our chalet. The locals pointed out our lodge and we made it back.

The boys were naturally disappointed as they couldn’t play on the beach. To make it up, N rented a snorkel and mask for him and Rishi and they did some shallow water snorkelling. From the jetty, we could see many starfish and other sea creatures.

At 2pm, we followed N and some guests to a nearby reef about 10mins boatride away for snorkelling.

The starfish - plenty around

Rishi happily attempting snorkelling

Some of the others who were in the boat with us..

Harish comfortably seated for the ride..

It was N’s first so naturally he was excited. After 45mins, the snorkellers returned .

N putting on the snorkel

Rishi encouraging his dad

Father and son

While waiting in the boat, me and the boys saw a big turtle. We could see the turtle’s head popping in and out of the water as he swam.

Rishi on the lookout for N

Can you see the turtle's head bobbing out of the water? He was right behind our boat

The group

That evening, we saw a beautiful sunset where the sun meets the sea. Pretty, very pretty.

The sunset..where the sea meets the sun

Another beautiful scenery

Family watching the sunset on the deck

Dinner that night consisted of white rice, chicken coated with honey and soysauce, vegetable and fried beef.

The boys at dusk

Rishi took this shot...his masterpiece, beautiful, yes?

 

As the sun disappeared

Some guests sat on the deck chairs reading books, some were photographing the sunset, some drinking away, and others including us sat under the moonlight for some time.

The boys spotted some cats and started chasing after them. That night, me and the boys slept almost instantly. N stayed out till late, he said a couple (siblings) from Denmark joined him. Some guests played the guitar and had group singing sessions. It seems 2 giant turtles came close to the chalet that night.

On the 2nd day, the sun was out. After breakfast (fried mee hoon; tasteless) we walked to the beach to let the kids play on the sand and collect shells. I was sure they will freak out if we didn’t find a good spot for them. We found a spot which was fairly clean, right in front of one of the luxury chalet operators. The operator had built a jetty leading up to the jump-off point for divers and snorkellers. Yes, it was written that this was ‘private property’.

While the boys played, N and I took a long walk on the jetty, ignoring the sign. What a beautiful sight it was. As we walked further away from the beach, on both sides of the jetty, we saw so many corals and colourful fishes. And when we reached the end of the jetty, we saw many divers already underwater. As the corals are protected, everyone is warned not to touch them. Unfortunately, we missed out on photos here as we couldn't charge our camera batteries the previous night. The plug in the room just didn't work.

Every resort/dive operator had their borders in the sea meaning areas for their guests to dive. Outside this border, you could see poor and homeless sea gypsies carrying on with their lives. Some had built huts on stilts, some live in boats (I saw people cooking, washing, eating and sleeping in their boats) while their dirty looking children, some totally naked, catch fish, swim and play on the beach.

Rishi told me later that they actually played ‘throw and catch’ with the starfish. They seem so neglected and are different from some other villagers who seem to live in some kind of social order (like having schools, mosque etc). I even saw a banner in the kindergarten thanking MP Khairy Jamaluddin for officiating the opening.

The contrast was so obvious. The many Caucasians and a few Chinese/Japanese holiday in luxurious beach chalets/resorts and enjoy diving/snorkelling; while the poor sea gypsies live right beside the resorts on rubbish-strewn beaches and old stilt houses. I watched as the guard rudely told the poor children to stay off the jetty.

The other contrast was while divers are told to preserve the corals and reefs and protect marine life, the poor villagers collected these corals to be sold as souvenirs!

At one point, the guard on duty tried to tell us we were trespassing on private property. He looked Malay but spoke in American slang. We said we were just checking out the place for future holidays.

We even went to the reception to enquire on rates and were surprised to see the place teeming with Caucasians. It looked like an exclusive place for them. The staff manning the reception was Caucasian, so was the Manager. Except for menial jobs like cleaning, housekeeping, landscaping etc., which the locals did.

By now, the boys had happily collected 3 big plastic bag full of shells and one cup of live baby crabs. We went back to the lodge and I asked them to release the crabs as we can’t possibly take them back as they will surely die. The boys did as were told.

We had lunch (squid in cauliflower soup (yuks), chicken etc) and asked the operator to let us know if there were boats leaving the island before our scheduled departure at 4pm. They said there is one at 3pm. By 2pm we were asked to check-out.

The ride back to Semporna was smooth, we could see many Indonesian islands from the boat.

The ride back..more calm

Bye Mabul Island! And to the pretty bird that posed for me below, have a great life...you are so pretty.



I saw this lonely guy perched on a rock near a resort



There he is...he knew I was there but stayed put on his spot

Some Tips :

1. Be informed that Mabul Island is for diving enthusiasts so all lodges/resorts cater and pamper more to their needs.

2. There are packages for non-divers.

3. Mabul Island and the islands surrounding it are blessed with reefs, corals and sea life that can only be seen through diving or snorkelling; so if you don't do either one, you have not really seen Mabul in its wholeness


4. Best if non-divers go on a day trip but it may not really be worth the money as return boat transfer is expensive; RM100 per pax (adult)


5. If you bring along children, they may get bored easily, other than leaving them to play at the beach and there is not much of this left. The dive operators offer no stimulating activities for children.

6. There are no proper shops, supermarkets or even restaurants in the island so you have no choice but take up one of the packages offered by the dive operators as they provide meals (there are however small shops that sell tidbits and household items for tourists; and I saw one small restaurant run by a villager but not sure if they open all day)

7. There are no cars and motorcycles on the island, the mode of travel is by walking


8. Electricity is turned off from 8am till 5pm every day, so be warned. Charge all phones and cameras beforehand.

9. Baths are traditional Malay styled - cold water in a bucket of water. I suppose if you opt for expensive resorts, you need not be concerned about this.

10. Would recommend a night stay for honeymooners at the expensive resort - ideal place. Sunrise, sunset, crystal clear water, corals etc etc


11. The last boat leaves the island at 4pm daily


12. The divers are mainly whites so the food is tailored to meet their taste buds; very mildly spiced and lots of beef


13. There is separate rent charge for renting of suits, masks, fins, oxygen tank and whatever gadgets that divers or snorkellers use including underwater camera


14. Be ready to take lots of pretty pictures; whatever said, islands are always so picturesque


15. Venture and check out the other dive operators' places - the jetties, dive site as some of these places have beautiful underwater reefs and corals- and find clever ways to ward off the guard that 'protects' the 'private property'


16. Take time to look at how the villagers' live - especially the sea gypsies, their houseboats and the childrens' antiques. Really makes you count your blessings.




Some concerns :

1. Is there any effort to control the population in Mabul Island? I think the island can only sustain so much habitants.

2. Is there any effort by the state government to conserve the reefs and corals and the marine life that thrives here? I hope so, as my spirits were dampened at the sight of so much rubbish on the beach and in the crystal clear waters.

3.  Is there any hope for the poor Sea Bajaus who live here? Are their children going to live the same life as their parents? Who looks after their needs? There seems to be sections of them who are obviously marginalised?

4. Are more and more private operators going to build more resorts and chalets here? And deny the visiting public access to the beautiful beach of Mabul? Who gives them the right to own beaches?

I don't have the answers...but I do hope fervently that these concerns can be addressed. My dear Sabahans, if you are with me, do something for your Mabul Island please.

All photos are copyrighted. I can be reached at sivakay2009@gmail.com.