flowering....happens only when you travel: Part 2

Part 2 – Mysore, Karnataka (8 & 9 June /2 Nights)

On 8 June 2011, we took the pre-booked package tour to Mysore. We were asked to wait at a designated spot at 6.30am, and the pick-up came at about 7.00am. But the bus only left at about 9.00am. Mysore is about 140km from Bangalore. It was a scenic ride....

We saw this rock mountain on our way from Bangalore to Mysore

And this building too..not sure what it is..

The bus was comfortable and headed straight to Woodlands Restaurant for our breakfast. One set of 2 Idlis (rice cake), 1 Vadai, 2 types of chutney, sambar and tea costs RS25. You have to get a token first before collecting the food.

Our bus

The breakfast - idlis, vadai, tea, chutney and sambar

As the concept of queing is alien to most locals, it was frustrating to see men push themselves forward to place orders and collect food. Some speak loudly for their order to be heard. The one who shove the most and speak the loudest gets their food faster. But I must say that the tea was tasty, must be the fresh milk they use.

Our guide, sorry can’t recall his name, but I remember we referred to him as ‘Dear Tourist’ as this was how he started his every brief and address to us. He collected RS140 for entrance fees and RS20 as guide fee.

‘Dear Tourist’ was a serious fellow, each time he opened his mouth it sounded like an MP giving a speech, and a lengthy loud one at that. If you were to get up during one of his session, he will quickly tell you to sit and listen.

The 6 places we visited in Mysore were :-

Package Tour

1. Tippu’s Gumbaz, Fort and Tomb

2. Sri Rangapatna-Sri Ranganatha Swamy Temple

3. St Philomina Church

4. Mysore Maharajah Palace

5. Chamundi Hills

6. Brindavan Garden

Auto-Rickshaw Tour

7. Devarajah Market

8. Lalita Mahal Hotel

9. Mysore city

1. Tippu’s Fort and Tomb

The fort is also called Sri Rangapatna Fort as it surrounds the ancient temple. It is mostly in ruins now but back then (in 1799), this is where the Tiger of Mysore (Tippu Sultan) had held English soldiers at bay. As our bus entered the ‘patna’, we were shown the many remaining dungeons that housed English prisoners captured during the Second Anglo-Mysore war. But Tippu was betrayed by his own Commander and subsequently died in a hand-to-hand combat with British soldiers.

The tomb stands at the very spot where his body was found.

Tippu Sultan tomb

Gumbaz

2. Sri Rangapatna-Sri Ranganatha Swamy Temple

Sri Rangapatna (built in 894 AD) is actually 13 km away from Mysore. It is located along Mysore-Bangalore highway. The presiding deity is Lord Ranganatha (Vishnu) sleeping on a 7-headed serpent. It is a showcase of Vijayanagara and Hoysala architecture. This was the capital of Tippu Sultan during Muslim rule. Tippu sultan was said to be a devotee of Lord Ranganatha.

But I think the Karnataka state government has neglected this place.

We saw beggars outside the entrance and piles of rubbish everywhere. This is also due to the drink stalls and handicraft shops operating at the vicinity of the entrance. This is the sight that greeted us before we entered and it does mar the overall perception.

But what a architecturing marvel! Such huge granite pillars, it’s as though you have entered an ancient era. For Vaisnavaites (Vishnu devotees), this is one of the most important pilgrimage shrines in South India.

The Ranganatha Temple

Sri Ranganatha Temple - a panoramic view

Inside the temple compound

3. St Philomina Church

As you enter Mysore city, you will be greeted by signs that read ‘Welcome to the Heritage City of Mysore’. Mysore is deserving of this title. From the trees and buildings, you do get the feel of being in a ‘Maharajah’ built city. Every important landmark in Mysore was built under the order of the Maharajah.

Old trees and Maharajah's welcoming tower

One distinctive landmark is the St Philomina’s church (built 1936), you can see it from miles away. So astounding! It’s architecture is Neo-Gothic and it was inspired by the Cologne Cathedral in Germany. The twin spires are 175ft tall. The relic of 3rd century St Philomena is preserved in a catacomb below the main altar.

The St Philomena church

The beautiful church

For lunch, we were taken to Leela’s Hotel. For RS140, we had South Indian Thali meal with fruit juices.

Standard Thali meal set - South and North Indian menu

The North Indian thali meal (the south has rice)

4. Mysore Palace

A visit to Mysore is not complete without a visit to Mysore Palace. On our tour, we were the only non-Indians and we purchased tickets at locals' rate, which is RS20 per pax.

But along the way, we got held back at the ‘Shoe Storage’ area. We were supposed to safekeep our shoes at this place for free whilst we are inside the palace. We just couldn’t get the shoe-keepers to take our shoes from us. There was no queue, so people who were surrendering their shoes were mixed up with people who were collecting their shoes. Can you imagine the chaos?

There were only two elderly staff manning the counter, and they seemed so harassed. I saw a man insert a note into the staff’s hand, who promptly pocketed the cash and took the guys’ shoes. Some people were so rude that they didn’t even hand their shoes to the staff but just tossed it to them. If you understand Indian mentality, tossing shoes at an elderly man is very rude. We did finally get our shoes stored. But alas, when we reached the entrance, we were asked to produce Indian ID. So that was it, we turned back and just about explored the outside of the palace.

Mysore Palace

We lost the RS40 rupees we paid for entrance, and ‘Dear Tourist’ was surprised that the guards asked for ID, and did nothing else. Not to give up, since we had one more day in Mysore, we decided to return and pay the foreigner fee of RS200 per pax for entry.

So the next day, we did an ‘Auto Rickshaw Tour’ of Mysore and spent a good 3 hours in the palace. It was well worth it as the palace was majestic! Such grandiose living and luxury, some pillars were purely made in gold (enough to feed the poor in Mysore...).

Inside the palace - what used to be the gladiator field

The richly decorated pillars and chandeliers

The painted and carved ceilings

The entry to the gladiator field is guarded by two huge tigers

A statue of the Maharajah during his time in power, that must be his bodyguard

Some doors were forbidden and were sealed

The ceiling glassess mostly imported

The balcony from where the Maharajah held audience with the people

Maharajah Krishnarajendra Wodeyar sure lived in style and elegance. His son still lives in part of the palace and this part is off limits to the public.

The entry to the palace

Lord Shiva Temple within the palace ground- a temple built for the Maharajah?

When done, we hung out at the bazaar outside and tasted the freshly milked sugar cane juice and coconut drink. As it was mango season, many locals either bought or ate them. We had coconut drinks straight from the coconut and sugar cane juice too. We dared drink as the drinks weren't mixed with water.

Freshly juiced sugar cane - all done manually

Coconut seller outside the palace

Mangoes and pineapples for sale outside the palace

And yes, what is India if you don't see a snake charmer. We saw a snake charmer outside the palace gate. His cobra danced to his flute movement while his child collected money. There were many salesmen selling trinkets and anklets; I actually bought one just to keep the persistent fellow away.

Snake charmer, wife, child and monkey

5. Chamundi Hills

We were beginning to see a trend among princely rulers of India now. They each had their favourite deity for which they built temples, the grander the better. For Mysore Maharajah, his family deity sits atop Mysore Hill, Shri Chamundeshwari. The hill is named after her, Chamundi Hill. The temple is elevated at 1000 meters. The guardian of Mysore, Mahishasura is perched up here, a demon of Hindu mythology. Legend says that he was killed by the Goddess and his statue was built to appease him (lest he takes out his wrath on Mysoorians).

It was a long ride up. The air was cooling and you can see the entire Mysore City once at the top.

Chamundeshwari Temple

Mysore view from atop Chamundi Hill

The offerings sold for Goddess Chamendeshwari

Mahishasura - the demon guardian

A calf sitting serenely oblivious of happenings -couldn't resist

Another calf - not sure if she wants food

6. Brindavan Gardens

This is a famous park in Mysore. I think the Karnataka Government is doing well in preserving parks and trees. The park was so crowded as many came to watch the musical fountain dance in the evening. We only got a glimpse of it. We had our tea, with local snacks and the best part of the garden was it was well lit. Be prepared for lots of walking.

The evening scenery at Brindavans

Brindavan's many fountains

The musical fountain show, the place was crowded, not so good a shot

The deity in the middle of the fountain

The tour bus dropped us off at Brindavan Residency (house converted into lodge) and we had to pay the porter boy Rs20 for just lifting our bags down the bus. The lodge was spacious but there wasn’t any hot shower, but it was clean and yes, best of all, no bed bugs (my biggest criteria in hotel selection).

Brindavan Residency, Mysore

Home converted into lodge

We walked out for dinner to Blue Inn Restaurant, and had Grilled Chicken with Naan. N ended his meal with a Paan (spices spread over betel leaf). We spent RS 100 on dinner.

Paan opened up - it is served folded

This is how food bills are presented, with sugar-coated spice, the spice aids digestion

7. Devarajah Market

I read about this market in many of the travel blogs and were inspired to go as the fresh produce were so colourful and attractive. It actually was colourful, and people were photo friendly and the entire market was well organized. One whole row of flower sellers, followed by vege sellers, just name it. And the way these things were displayed, just beautiful. Luckily, our auto driver took us early in the morning, best time before the crowd came in. The city wakes at about 10.00am daily.

Vegetables

Lime

Beautiful colours

The row and rows of garlands; imagine walking thru and inhaling the fragrance

Flowers, fresh

Green fresh produce

Wood carvings

Teak product for sale

8. Lalitha Mahal Palace/Hotel

This Palace was built in 1931 by the Maharajah to host his VIP guests. It is a shimmering white palace, Italian design. Today, it is one of the most expensive hotels catering to princely stay. It seems a night’s stay is about RS8000.

We posed for photos in its sprawling landscaped garden and took a quick picture on the Maharajah’s horse carriage.

On a horse-carriage

On our 2nd day in Mysore, we took a walk out and stopped to buy a shampoo bottle at the tiny store.

The tiny shampoo bottle

This is when we were approached by a bicycle vendor selling souvenirs. Soon, another came with incense sticks. N bargained for the souvenirs we bought. These same guys showed us a nice place for breakfast, again Idlis and Vadai, for RS72.

Tea served in silver cup and saucer

We also met a friendly auto man outside the restaurant who hailed from Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu and agreed on a tour around Mysore. He took us around the whole day including a stop for lunch where we spent RS120 on a Thali set. He picked us up from the lodge when we checked out. When he finally sent us off to Mysore Railway Station for our 6pm train, he asked for Rs600, and we settled for Rs500. (did we pay too much?)

Our auto on the second day

N's newfound friends - L to R : Mr Stranger Auto-Driver, Wilson-our Auto Driver, The Incense Seller,
The Souvenir Vendor and N

How would I describe Mysore in one or two words? Here goes :-

1. Ancient buildings

2. Age old trees

3. Parks, greenery

4. Fascination for Maharajah

5. Soft spoken people

6. Mysore silk

7. Kannada,Telugu and Hindi

8. Men in cardigan and winter cap

9. Laidback

10. Cows in streets

11. Fairly clean city

12. Colourful market

13. Mousambi juice

14. Sandalwood

15. Slow-paced city

16. Smoking of bidi

17. Paan

18. Dasara festival

19. Incense sticks

20. Chill nights

A Maharajah city without horses? Horses for a ride...

Cool cows - bullock cart in Mysore

At 6pm, we jumped into the Tutticorin Express. A 600km overnight train journey from Mysore to Madurai in a 2nd class sleeper. The tickets cost the two of us RS685 one way. I was pleasantly surprised that the train was clean, well maintained, and the people, clad decently. All who boarded had a seat, and at about 10pm people started switching off the lights and opened their sleeper seats. Nice ride, with enough supply of tea and snacks from vendors.

Some tips :-

-In Mysore, one just needs to relax, that’s the general laid-back feeling you get here.

-Food, you need to do a bit of research to find out the best eateries, otherwise ask the locals.

-Buses and rickshaws are available if you enquire.

-Beware of sweet-smiling auto drivers; they may seem humble but when it comes to payment, they are not so humble. But it is the auto man who represents the general thinking of the locals.

-Get a guide for important tourist places, otherwise you may miss out on hidden stories and details not be missed. Our Mysore Palace guide explained in detail the type of wood, stones and materials used in the Mysore Palace and many other palace stories. He also demo-ed how best to look at the art pieces - the kind of painting where the eyes' follow you as you move.

-Don’t miss the markets and bazaar-they are so colourful and a delight for photography.

-Be at least an hour early if you are catching the train from Mysore. The Rail System is efficient, though I misplaced the tickets, just by quoting the booking number we were able to get through. Online booking helps.

Thank you ...