Part 3 - Medieval Madurai

Part 3 – Madurai, Tamil Nadu (10 & 11 June 2011 /2 Nights)

Medieval because of the way this ancient temple city carries on while maintaining a semblance of what it must have been like in the bygone era. From the way life of its' people revolve around temple activities to the way the locals dress, very ancient but somehow kept so alive.

We reached Madurai Railway Station at 9.00am. We had earlier freshened up in the train, mind you, they actually had Indian and Western toilets. The difference being squatting and sitting.

A scenery from the train

Another scene from the train - green open fields

Mysore - Madurai bound Express Train

Aboard the Tutticorin Express

Our seats - next to the window-the seats doubles as sleeper

Young man doing his rounds selling mixed nuts




Train tracks running close to squatters

 We had planned to book our next journey at Madurai Railway Station but I gave up trying as there were many people waiting ahead of me. In the meantime, an auto rickshaw guy (paid him RS50 for ride and carrying of luggage) had approached N and suggested a package tour with hotel accommodation. So we went along.

We were taken to the tour operator’s office which was just the street across the Palace Hotel, the place we stayed in Madurai. The tour operator suggested we do a half day visit to Meenakshi Amman temple on our own and follow his entourage for a half-day Madurai tour. Since we planned 2 days in Madurai, we opted for a full day Rameswaram trip the next day. The package for both Madurai and Rameshwaram cost us RS2500. Package includes accommodation 2 nights, half day Madurai tour and one day Rameswaram tour.

The alley that leads to the temple - where we stayed, you can see the 'gopuram'

Our mini-bus - pink and cute

We weren’t too happy with the hotel as the room looked ancient and window panes and curtains were dusty. We asked for a different hotel but were told that only A/C rooms are available and it will cost us double. Since we didn’t want to spend more time looking for hotels, we stayed. The consolation was that the Amman temple was just an alley away and the mattress was bug-free.

The room with a window

Room key made of metal and my, so heavy (to discourage customers from carrying it but instead leave it with them at the Reception, AS IF!)

The temple’s darshan closes at 12 noon daily, so we dumped our bags in the room, went for breakfast at Meenakshi Bhavan nearby – this time we ordered rawa tosai (Cost – RS76).

Breakfast in Madurai - rawa tosai with chutney & sambar and tea

We then took a walk to the famous UNESCO heritage site, Meenakshi Amman Temple. On our way, we were accosted by beggars and touts. Child beggar selling stickers, shop owners trying to talk us into their shops, auto drivers telling us to enter thru a certain gate, shopkeepers telling us to safekeep our shoes in their shops for a fee etc etc.

Our excitement of seeing the temple was so rudely interrupted many times. But we walked on and sure enough there was the ‘free’ shoe storage area near the gate. Entrance fee was RS100 per pax and camera fee RS60.

There is something about Madurai that overwhelmed us; the noise. It appeared as though people were screaming at us although they were actually talking. It took time to get used to loud and coarse talk. Suddenly, everyone appeared rude, hot-tempered and unfriendly. First, we dismissed this due to the weather being scorching hot, then we reasoned that people were just trying their best to survive or make a living, and finally by the end of our Madurai trip, I think some (not all) Maduraites are just plain angry at about everything and everyone, at least the few that we came across.

The beautiful gopuram

Look at the play of colours - such genius at work



Intricate carvings depicting ancient stories-OMG such awesome detail! - Most Colouful Temple



Back to the 2000 year old Meenakshi Amman Temple, it was well worth the visit. Heaven for photography. The coloured gopurams, the painted walls and floors, the elaborate sculptures, the sacred pond, etc. We happened to spot a few semi-nude sculptures on the gopuram, and other places and were naturally shocked. I guess there will always be some things that we will never understand.

The sacred pond (minus the water-dry season)

The amazing pillars

The green upper pillars (some colour code at work, perhaps?)



Lights up in prayers



Better view

Drawing (kolam) on the floor - pretending to draw...

The 1000 pillar hall is a must visit, each pillar is carved in Dravidian architecture. The Art Museum is also beautiful, a collection of icons exhibiting 1200 years old history. This temple is really the heart and lifeline of Madurai.

The 1000 pillar hall (mandapam)





N's masterpiece - the statues are bigger than an adult

 

Another shot

The overall view

We also came across a smaller temple within the compound which had a big tree next to it. On the tree, people had hung cradles with tiny baby dolls inside. These were prayer wishes of those wanting babies.

Cradles on the tree

For lunch, we headed to the closest decent-looking restaurant after enquiring at a STD booth, Saraswati Hotel. We had one set of Thali meal and drinks. The waiter who served us kept on adding rice and vegetables and water, and waited on us so much that we knew this meant a customary tip was obligatory. We spent RS 170 including the tip.

Before leaving, we stopped at one section that looked like a bazaar, deity pictures, bangles, statues, etc were on sale.

Attractively displayed bangles (for sale)

The special corner for fresh garland makers

Prayer items for sale

The 7 other places we visited in Madurai were :-

Package Tour

1. Mariamman Teppukulam

2. Thirumalai Nayak Palace

3. Gandhi Museum

4. Azhagar Temple

5. Pazhamudirsolai Temple

6. Shiva Temple (can’t remember the full name)

7. Vishnu Temple (can’t remember the full name) 

1. Mariamman Teppukulam

Built like a stadium, shrine in the middle

This is a huge tank (16 acres) built in 1646 by Tirumalai Nayak, the ruler of the then Madurai. We were told that there were underground water pipes/channels connecting the tank to the Vaigei River. The tank remains empty at most times except during the month of Jan-Feb when water is released into the the tank and a float procession of Meenakshi Amman takes place.

The shrine in the middle of the pond (teppukulam)

Since it was summer, what we saw was the shrine in the centre of the tank, boys playing cricket and buffaloes drinking water.

2. Thirumalai Nayak Palace

This palace was built in 1523AD and what stands out are the newly painted upper ceilings and circular pillars. Beautiful colour play at work.

The palace

Beautiful play of colours



The ceilings



The pillars



The famed Thirumalai Nayak

But the Palace had a kind of abandoned feel to it, and is the nesting place for a colony of pigeons. The huge courtyard was filled with pigeon droppings and the pillars were full of graffiti. An ideal place for couples to court.



Warning against graffitti

Warning ignored ...plenty of this on every pillar..

Piles of pigeon droppings - avoid walk in the central courtyard

3. Gandhi Museum

A solemn place. Displayed was Gandhi’s blood-stained dhoti, letters he wrote, his collection of books, personal items, and so many photographs of him.

The Gandhi Museum (all white)

The Mahatma

The only photo we took at the entrance - cameras banned

4. Azhagar Temple

This 12th century AD temple is 26km away from Madurai city, and set within forest hills. We saw ceiling paintings depicting stories of Ramayana and a ruined fort. However the main temple was closed due to some refurbishing work. Again, this temple also had a neglected feel to it. So much more can be done to better maintain this ancient place. It was so dark in the temple that I couldn’t see properly.

The Azhagar Kovil (work in progress)

The carved rock mountain against the forest and hills

The many, many pillars (could someone enlighten why these many pillars were built in those days? Structural support?)

We also saw cows, goats and chickens co-existing peacefully within the temple compound. Again, the entry point to the Temple was thronged by the poor and disabled, some selling things, some begging, some pleading through their eyes.

Taken from my mobile - hey! the cute goat actually looked right into my camera, Thank You Mr Goat

Earlier on our way up the hill, the driver stopped at a tea stall that was infested with houseflies. But goodness me, the mildly spiced tea tasted so good. I bought some ‘murukus’ and gave some to 2 of the co-drivers (young men) as I had noticed that they hardly drank or ate anything. One of the boys even asked me for my mineral bottle. These boys were the one driving. They were hungry, thin, barefoot, wore torn dirty shirt and sarong. At one point, N reminded the boy to change gears. So, if you want to travel with the locals in a non A/C mini-bus, be prepared for some risks. Having said that, I must add that the real thrill is in seeing and experiencing things the way the locals do...

A rooster - I think the fellow got wet

5. Pazhamudirsolai Temple

A Murugan temple located in the same hills as the Azhagar Temple, about 4km away.

The inside of the temple - clean and spacious

The Murugar Temple

6. Shiva Temple

We were actually quite templed-out by now. But when the bus stopped at this temple (not sure of it's name now), we couldn’t resist the automated temple bell that played some kind of chants. The music was deep and soul-reaching.

The automated temple bell

7. Vishnu Temple

This temple had a huge (really huge) statue of Lord Vishnu on his serpent together with his consort. The priest here was very strict, he warned that anyone who took pictures of the temple, their cameras will be confiscated and they will be fined. He was so watchful, N didn’t even try. But once outside, N took a photo of the Lord against the moonlight. He complained to our guide but the guide told the priest that we were taking pictures of the pretty moon...clever fellow.

Finally, the guide asked for his darshan/fee. He said that since he brought along 2 extra hands (co-drivers), we should make a generous donation. Kept coming back to us, and since we really think he did a good job, we wanted to give him slightly more than Rs20 but we had no change. He was disappointed but accepted the RS30 that we offered. This guy was the nicest guide ever.

N (in blue) with our Madurai Guide (nice man)

Later, we headed to our room, bathed and went out for dinner. We headed to the famous ‘Murugan Idli Shop’. This is the part that N gets scolded by an old shop-lady when asked for directions. She was annoyed that N doubted her . She had actually pointed us to the right direction but N mentioned that the man before her had shown us the opposite direction. Never disagree with seniors; and yes, see how easily you can annoy a Maduraite.

The much talked about Murugan Idli Shop (opposite Potty's Saree Shop)

When we found the restaurant, it was full. We had to wait and watch like eagles, stare at whoever is about to finish, then quickly park yourself there. It’s ok if you find yourself seated in front/next to a total stranger. This is a pretty standard procedure in most of the restaurants we went to. Just make sure you don't lose your temper while waiting and watching eagle-eyed.

Murugan's idli was pillow soft and chutney spicy and hot. Best idlis ever. We spent RS91.

When we left the restaurant, we saw a procession along the road. Loud music blared, Indian devotional songs played, and so many people walked without shoes behind the chariot.

The night procession on the busy road in front of Murugan Idli Shop

Later we witnessed a police wrecker vehicle in action. A harsh policeman used a loudspeaker and ordered people to move vehicles, or go back and learn driving. He sounded like a gangster straight out from Indian movies. Seems they won’t hesitate to wreck vehicles that obstruct traffic. He sure sounded serious.

Madurai police wrecker vehicle!

All along the walk back to our hotel, I kept looking out for walking space, pavement, spit-free road or whatever remained of the road shoulder, on top of avoiding collision with people. Not to mention the piles of rubbish littered along road shoulders and motorists driving inches close. People, vehicles, shops, stalls, beggars, all along the roadside.

The night scene

The next morning, the hotel staff carried up hot water for my shower. Hot water is only available from 6-9am.

My hot water tub

We quickly got ready and walked again to Meenakshi Villas for breakfast. Again, idlis and vadai for RS50. We were not in favour of trying the ‘pongal’ they recommended. 'Pongal' is mashed rice with lentils, I think. But I noticed that they had charged us for the ‘Pongal’ in the bill. Not sure if this was a genuine mistake, we duly pointed out the error. The owner apologized.

If I were to describe Madurai in one or two words, this will be my list :-

1. Meenakshi Amman temple

2. Bare-footed people

3. Men in dhoti, white ash/red dot on forehead

4. Women in saree, plaited & oiled hair adorned with jasmine

5. Unsmiling and tensed people

6. Actor Vijay posters

7. Jayalalitha Amma posters

8. Rubbish piles

9. Shops in alleys

10. Men spitting and pissing

11. Water tankers

12. Beggars

13. Money-minded priests

14. Cows, buffaloes and goats

15. Idli, vadai, sambar

16. Motorbikes

17. Pictures of deities (everywhere-walls, business outlets etc)

18. Heat and dust

19. The fragrance of jasmine

20. Timely buses

Some tips :-

-Be prepared for lots of noise and chaos on streets

-People may not always be friendly; you may be left wondering what did I do or say to annoy them?
-Always be polite, respectful and smile; although at times you can really be tested

-Make enquiries with the locals, they like to help but don't disagree with them so much

-Ask a few people the same question to rule out the wrong answers; eg at bus station on which platform to wait
-As for hotels, be warned that hot showers are available and provided their way, toilets may not have flush but water is available

-Be prepared for loads of barefoot walking especially on temple grounds; bring along lotion or cream to pamper your legs later

-Be extra nice to the bus drivers and conductors, they appear very stressed

-Always check the bill before you pay, just to be sure

-Always check your balance, and reject currency notes that are torn

I didn't see a bullock cart but I saw this lone guy scavenging

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Photos : NIKON COOLPIX P300