Malacca - Portuguese & Dutch Remnants Pt 4

3 - 6 June 2015

Well, a visit to Malacca city is not complete without stopping at the Red Square aka Dutch Square; obviously named because of the number of buildings painted red around the square.  It seems the Dutch buildings were originally white but the British had them painted red. 

Clock tower built by a Chinese Kapitan during British rule

The Red Square, built in 1650, was the administrative capital of the Dutch.  It housed the then city hall of the Dutch, called the Stadthuys (pronounced as 'stat-highs' meaning town hall). The Stadthuys was the office of the Dutch Governors and then followed by British Governors for almost 300 years and apparently it is the oldest remaining Dutch building in Asia.  The Malacca government has converted the Stadthuys into a museum which now houses Malacca's most important historical journey and ethnography artifacts. 

That is a fountain named after Queen Victoria in front of the Stadthuys

The Christ Church built in 1753 by the Dutch still stands here.  It is said to be the oldest Protestant church in Malaysia.

History tells us that the Stadthuys was built on the ruins of the Portuguse fort.  As you climb up the St Paul Hill, you will see a Dutch graveyard.  The British later used it as a burial ground for its army officers and spouses.

As for the Portuguese, the only traces that remain is the A Famosa fort and that too, only a small gate.
The Portuguese stayed in this fortress for 130 years.  There are also some ruins (which was accidentally uncovered in 2006) of the Portuguese fortress on the banks of Malacca River.

Porta de Santioga - the only remaining gate of the Portuguese fort - the rest was demolished by the British

View from St Paul's hill

For most Malaysians, we do not have any idea of Portuguese or Dutch rule in Malacca.  All that history books tell us is that they came, conquered, ruled, were either defeated or left.  How was Malacca like during their rule, we do not know.  These buildings, I am sure, have seen history happen, and they remain an important link to that era.  The other proof of their existence are the descendants of the Portuguese for which there is a Portuguese settlement in Malacca but none of the Dutch.   Besides that, there is the use of Portuguese and Dutch words in the Malay language, 

Malacca's Submarine Museum Pt 3

3- 6 June 2015

On our last day in Malacca, we decided to stop at Klebang, to see Malaysia's one and only submarine museum. The museum was opened to public in Dec 2011.  The decommissioned SMD Quessant from France stands proud on Klebang beach.

This is a must see especially if you go with children.  Entering a submarine, checking out the gadgets and mind-boggling machines can be fun and educational.  Unfortunately, there was no guided tour to explain the equipment or the workings of a submarine.  But beneath the submarine, there is a video show of the setting up of the museum in Klebang.  There is an exhibition of all Malaysian submarines too.  Visitors are provided chairs to sit and view the video.  Sitting under the submarine with cooling fans around while watching the video was cool.

the entrance point

No,this is not a ghost although he comes close - this is a replica of the crew in the dining area inside the submarine

For my children, this was the highlight of the visit to Malacca.

Malacca - Not all is Lost Pt 2

3 - 6 June 2015

Well, having given a first impression account of how I saw Malacca in Part 1, let me take you to our stay and the things that we did there.

We checked in at Mahkota Hotel Melaka on a weekday. This hotel is located on the waterfront in the heart of historical Melaka overlooking the Straits of Malacca.  By the way, the hotel is a part of a land waterfront reclamation project.  The hotel overlooks what is called the Pulau Melaka, a man-made island with a bridge linking it to the mainland.  A new mosque, with a lighthouse-like minaret, sits right in the middle.

Malacca River Cruise

On our first night in Malacca city, we went on the river cruise.  Just so that you know, tickets are priced higher during school break. MYR10 for adult and MYR5 for children - for Malaysians.  For foreigners it is MYR15 per adult and MYR 7 per child. The boat was a comfortable 40 seater.  An audio recording of the history and places we passed by was played for visitors.  

photo source :melakarivercruise.com 

There are pathways for people to walk along the banks of the river.  If you don't want to do the cruise, walking along the riverbank and making one full circle would do too.  There are small cafes selling snacks and beer along the riverbank.

Malacca Sultanate Palace - a replica

The next day we visited the Malacca Sultanate palace, a replica actually.  I like this Malay old-style architecture.  The wooden replica was cooling inside and felt cosy. History tells us that Malacca Sultanate ruled for 110 years until defeated by the Portuguese in 1511. Admission ticket is MYR2 for adult and MYR1 for children.

Foreign traders announcing their visit to the Sultan of Malacca

Malacca Museum of History & Ethnography

We could not give the Museum a miss so we bought the tickets and went in. Ticket price is MYR5 for adult and MYR3 for children.  There was a lot to absorb here.  One of the staff at the museum gave us a free talk on the town and fortress of Malacca.  He said that although the British demolished the fort, there are still many layers of underground tunnels beneath the fort.  This is something that we will never get from Malaysian history textbooks.  In fact generations of Malaysian children have grown up not knowing how Malacca was like under Portuguese or Dutch rule especially the latter.

The town and fortress of Malacca or what the Dutch called the Stadthuys (Wikipedia)

The museum staff spoke good English.  The Museum should tap on his skills and allow him to engage visitors more.

European colonials in Malacca

Malacca Governor's Museum 

We also visited the Governor's house.  The Malacca Governor no longer stays here.  By the way, Malacca is one of the states without a Sultan in Malaysia. The royals fled to Johore, a neighbouring state when the Portuguese attacked and conquered Malacca in 1511 after which they just disappeared from history. This was the former official residence of Dutch governors and British governors of Malacca during their respective rule.  Built by the Dutch in the 17th century, it continued to be the residence of 5 Malacca state governors up till 1996.  It is now gazetted as a museum that displays artifacts and personal collections of past and present governors.  Some say that the original palace of the Malacca Sultan was located here, at the St Paul's Hill.

I hate to say this but we actually saw a yellow alien inside (see pix below).

The yellow alien - a collection of a past Governor of Malacca?

The Governors' Museum

Malacca Independence Declaration Memorial

Then, we also paid a visit to the Independence Declaration Memorial which was formerly the Malacca Club which was used by the British upper class as a place for social activities. Built in 1912 by the Dutch, this colonial mansion now houses exhibits on Malaysia's journey to independence.  There used to be a huge field in front where Malaysia's first Prime Minister proclaimed independence.  The field was called Padang Pahlawan but now what you see is Dataran Pahlawan, a megamall. The field has given way to a megamall.

Malacca was declared a UNESCO Heritage Site in 2008 because of its rich cultural heritage. Malacca's history is very colourful, it has passed through many periods of history under different rulers:-

*The Portuguese ruled Malacca for 130 years.  

*The Dutch ruled for 183 years.  

*The British ruled for 155 years. 
*The Japanese ruled Malacca for 4 years.

*Prior to foreign rule, the Malacca Sultanate from Parameswara's lineage ruled for over a 100 years.  

What brought the foreign traders to Malacca was its location on the strategic shipping lanes of the Malacca Strait.  A place to wait out the monsoon season. Sadly thre is very little left of the Portuguese era.  Most part of the Portuguese Fort was destroyed by the British leaving only the main entrance to the fort.  The British did this to kill Malacca as a trading port.  They wanted traders to stop in Penang and not Malacca as Penang was the port city of British during that time.

Malacca Trishaw

By the way, we did check out the beca-ride (trishaw) but it was too pricey, so gave it a skip.

Malacca Chitti settlement

We also went to the Chitti settlement to get a feel of the life of the Hindu Peranakan of Malacca. They are descendants of Tamil traders who settled in Malacca 500 years ago.  What is unique among them is that they are Hindus but follow Malay culture and tradition and speak Malay following inter-marriage to Malay women.  They have a temple in their village and there is a museum.

But alas, at the time we arrived there, the museum was closed.  A sad sight because the village is sandwiched by development at all corners. Not sure how long the community would hold on to their heritage without some sort of recognition by the state government.

Angaloo Parameswari temple

Malacca's Bukit Cina cemetery
Our next stop was the historical Bukit Cina or Chinese Hill.

"According to the local tradition, in the mid-15th century, Hang Li Po was sent to be married to the sultan of Malacca, Sultan Mansor Shah, to seal relations between the two countries. The hill, Bukit Cina, a gift from the sultan, was established as their residence." (Wikipedia)

After the death of the princess, she was buried on the hill together with her entourage. Admiral Zheng He (the leader of the entourage from Ming Dynasty) is also believed to be resting here.  Following that, the local Chinese used the hill as a burial ground.  Today, is stands as a piece of history and tourist attraction.  It is also used as a recreational park by the locals for jogging and trekking up the hill.

"Bukit China became a Chinese cemetery in 1685 when Lee Wei King, the then “Kapitan China” of Malacca, bought the three hills from the Dutch and renamed them as “San Pao Shan” (Three Gems Hill or Three Protections Hill). He placed it under the trust of the Cheng Hoon Teng temple. Reputedly, it is the oldest remaining traditional Chinese burial ground in the world with 12,500 graves." (the STAR - 16 Aug 2013)

Malacca's Jonker Street

On one of the nights in Malacca, we went to the famous Jonker Street just to check out the scene and have dinner.  Jonker Street is very happening on weekends (Friday and Saturday nights),  It is

Malacca's very own Chinatown.  Some roads are closed for night traders. It is best if you just walked to the night market.  The whole place was lighted up with red lanterns. Many varieties of food can be found here as well as souvenir items.

Jonker Street - photo source : wonderfulmalaysia.com

Malacca - Don't mess with her? - Part 1

3 - 6 June 2015, Malacca

I know it has been some time since I last visited Malacca, may be 10 years ago, but what greeted me on this visit to Malacca was shocking, to say the least.  I am talking about the signage or the slogan that is placed at just about everywhere in Malacca. It reads “Don’t Mess with Melaka.” 

the offensive signage

Hello?  Which genius came up with this sign-lah?  For a moment, as I glared at the signage, I thought it was a tourist promotional thingy. Then I thought it could be Malacca’s idea of welcoming visitors. Only to realise much later that it means, don’t litter! Who would have guessed?

the welcome signboard - also carries the slogan

Seriously, I think Malacca state government should just remove that offensive signage. It is like being greeted by thugs which is not the image that outsiders have of Malaysians.  It is not polite to greet people this way and the message that it is supposed to carry - do not litter - does not really come across.  Why can't the state keep it simple like "Keep Malacca Clean and Green." That awful slogan is totally out of place.

Anyway, back to Malacca trip. Many many disappointments. Let me list them so that I can get to the point straight on.

One - Malacca is supposed to be a historical city but history is being kind of re-written here. There is heavy UMNO-presence everywhere as though the state government wants to make a statement here that Malacca belongs to UMNO and the Malays.  (Note: UMNO is the dominant party that rules the Barisan Nasional , the party that rules Malaysia currently).

b  

the Malacca River/Canal - nightview

      Two - The lifeline of Malacca in its early years was the Malacca River but the Malacca River is no longer a river but a canal.  The river that was the centre of activity throughout its long history now functions as a tourist attraction spot.  The main activity is the river cruise.  Although the state has done a massive job of cleaning up the dirty and polluted waters of the river which is good, I cannot help feeling that a piece of history has been lost here.

the Dutch remnants - graveyard

    Three - The Portuguese settlement of Sg Ujong has been neglected badly. The fishing activity that was traditionally carried out has been hampered by waterfront development projects. I don't think anyone can fish in this coastal area anymore.  What still remains is a small group of terrace houses called the Portuguese village. The occupants are mainly elderly retired people.

newly set up hotels - on reclamation land

      Four - The Indian Peranakan people of Malacca known as the Chitti community has also been neglected.  Their settlement is a small village that is surrounded by development at all corners.  I am not sure how long the community can survive this way.  Many youngsters have moved away to other cities once again leaving the old folks at home.  The Chitti temple still stands and there is a small museum at the entrance of the village which by the way was closed when we were there. That is the Chitti settlement for you.

land reclamation work 

e   Five - The continuous land reclamation work along Malacca's coastline.  The coastal town of Malacca is no longer coastal due to this massive reclamation that is going on in order to build new townships. The scenic coastal driveway from Jalan Tengkera to Tanjung Bidara beach which was lined with pre-war mansions and bungalows is now obstructed by land reclamation project.

view from our hotel - new island created thru land reclamation

      Six - There are more budget hotels than visitors in Malacca town! Seriously! We went during the school break and this is what I saw.  Perhaps the development came about the time Malacca city was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site back in 2008.  But what has happened is that there are way too many hotels than tourists and visitors!

   Seven - I also noticed too many supermarkets and hypermarkets in Malacca town.  Tesco, Giant, Jaya Jusco, Parkson, Bintang, The Store, etc. One mall that we entered was so huge with only a handful of people inside.  Who are they catering to?  The food court that we visited in the mall did not represent all segments of the population of Malacca. 

     Eight - The famous Jonker Street at the heart of Malacca's Baba Nyonya heritage site has turned into a regular pasar malam.  You can still find Baba Nyonya delicacies and eateries here but the numbers are few.  They are far outnumbered by other traders and  immigrant owned/manned stalls.

     Nine - If you drive around Malacca city, you will not get the feeling of being in an ancient colonial and historical city that was once the centre of attraction for Chinese, Indian, Portuguese, Dutch, Arab and other foreign traders.  Many old shop houses have been demolished for new housing projects thus changing the entire landscape of the city.

     Ten - The other thing I noticed is that the Baba Nyonya shops are kind of dead and abandoned. They seem to exist as showpiece only.  Herreen Street, where most antique shops, galleries and residential properties are located, exist but minus the thriving activities.  

malay warriors

i     Eleven - The town does not feel cosmo anymore. For a city that thrived on its multi-racial traders, what you get now is the dominance of one race.  There is a building dedicated to the history of UMNO right in the middle of the Dutch Square.  I mean where is the relevance of UMNO history in Malacca's ancient and colonial past. There was also an exhibition on the Islamic history right smack in the middle of Red Square.  Again, I really did not see the relevance of that exhibition displayed at the Red Square.  The state government is obviously attempting to drive home the point that the Malay race and the Islamic faith are the two most dominant themes of Malacca history.

      

hang tuah

    Twelve - The other funny thing I noticed was the fascination the locals had with the word 'Hang'. The local Malays take pride in the legendary 'Hang Tuah' blood lineage, I think, and they are very proud of this Hang Tuah heritage of their state.   The word ‘Hang’ is used everywhere, shops, people, buildings, road names and even food items!

k   Thirteen - In the Malacca Sultanate palace (the replica), there is a section that depicts the arrival of traders from many foreign lands.  Surprisingly, there was not one that depicted the arrival of Indian traders.  Instead, they had a section that portrayed the arrival of Gujerati traders.  History, if studied will tell you that Indian traders were a major force in the Malacca maritime trade of those days.  Most of Parameswara's right hand men were Indians.  But somehow this part has been omitted.  

      Fourteen - Bukit China, the burial site of the so-called Princess Hang Li Po and her followers, is a forgotten site.  The hill has shrunk a little due to development all around it.  It is surrounded by busy roads and strangely right across the road, there is now a Malay burial site.  The only visitors to the hill are those from China as I saw the arrival of tourists buses bringing in Chinese tourists.

bukit china

      So there you have it.  Malacca has lost its soul.  Development in historical cities should be checked.
    Having said this, I do have a wishlist for Malacca. Would it not be great if some semblance of Malacca's history is brought alive, based on factual records available?  Here is my wishlist:

     

     - A replica of 14^th century Malacca fishing village

     - A replica of Malacca port – where merchants waited out monsoon

     - The story of Sultan of Malacca having to abandon his palace      

     - Remnants of Portuguese rule in Malacca     

     - Remnants of Dutch rule in Malacca     

     - Remnants of British rule in Malacca         

    -  A thriving presence of the Baba-Nyonya community that existed for over 500 years in Malacca

    -  A thriving presence of the Chitti community that existed for over 500 years in Malacca

      -   A thriving presence of the Portuguese community that existed for over 500 years in Malacca

     By the way, where is Parameswara’s life story, the founder of Malacca in the 14th century?  And his burial site (does anyone know)?  The only mention of Parameswara outside the museum is one road name, and that was it.